Necklines And Its Types

 Necklines

• Necklines is an opening part of garment by which we wear it.
• It is an essential trimming or part.
• It is an opening live used to wear garment.
• It is important for any garment.
• Neckline does not have to be finished with a collar. It can be faced.
• "Faced" A facing is a piece of fabric that corresponds exactly to the shape of a neckline".
• It is sew to finish the row edges of necklines.
• Necklines is a framework of any dress or garment.
• If the necklines worsens, the whole look of a dress may destroy.
• It can make difference between loops.
• It is a centre of attraction of any garment. we cannot think about dresses without necklines.
• It may affects the garment fitting it is loose or tight.
• Neckline can be regular or essential part.

Types Of Necklines

1. Basic Necklines
2. Technical Necklines
3. Designer's Necklines

1.Basic Necklines:- Basic Necklines are simple Necklines.

Example:-Round, Square, V-Shape.

• In earlier Time the front and back both used to be same.
• Till now we are stick on circular neckline.

2.Technical Necklines:- Based of these necklines are basic necklines. These are based on solid figures.

Example:- Round, Rectangle, Conical/V, Square.

• It includes solid geometrical figures.

3.Designer's Necklines:- They are created by own imagination.

Designer's Necklines are classifies into two categorized.

1.Regular

2.Irregular

These are the variation of solid figures.

1.Regular :- These are based on normal neckline that require front, back and armhole in any garment.

Example:- String, Keyhole, Scoop, Sweetheart, Ladder.

2.Irregular:- These are not based on normal necklines and does not require armhole.

Example:- Off shoulder, 1 off shoulder.

Necklines Finishing

• Neckline area is often the most decorative part of dresses blouse, shirts, because it is close to face and is noticed before the other part of garment.
• The design an style of neckline and its finish should suit to wearer and should be appropriate two type of fabric.
• Therefore one must take care in designing and finishing neckline.
• If neckline is not rein forced by some kind of finish, it will starch and eventually loose  its shape and structure.

Types Of Finishing

1. Piping
2. Facing
3. binding

1.Piping:- In sewing, piping is a type of trimming consisting of a strip of a folded fabric so as to form a "pipe" inserted into a sew to define the edges or style line of any garment.

• Usually bias fabric strip is used.
• It may be made from either same fabric or constricted fabric.
• Piping is used to finish the curve edges.

Types Of Piping

1. Single
2. Cord
3. Double
4. Designer

1.Single:- These are simple piping which can be corded piping or inward facing piping.

2.Cord:- These are round shaped outward piping's synthetic wires, threads, wax, nylon thread are used.

3.Double:- These piping are outward piping the thread is passed through niddle in these piping.

4.Designer's:- It include frills, laces and layer of fabric stitch together.

Construction:- Basically used in circular and semi-circular shape to finish.

• Cut bias straight at 45' to increase stretchability.
• It is 1.5' wide bias strip, connect bios strip to form 1 long bios strip if required.
• Applied the fabric on neckline and if a half leg seam.
• After 3inch mark notches then turn up the fabric.
• Make a toxin and iron the fabric.
• Make hamming and then stitch shoulder.
• while stitching double or corded "piping's"." Double or corded" place the piping or cord in layers of fabric facing right to each other.

2.Facing:- Facing are used to provide a neat finish to our edges in your garment and to support shape of neckline, armhole, collars, etc.

• A Facing is a piece of fabric that is attached along an edge, then turned to lay flat on the underside of the edge to be faced.
• Neither Seem lines nor facing should show from outside of finish garment. Facing also give decorative finish, if they are turned to right side of garment.

There are mainly three types of Facing:-

1. Bias Facing
2. Shaped Facing
3. All Over Facing

1.Bias Facing:- In this type of facing a bios strip is used to finish the raw edges. It can be used on necklines , armholes. Bios facing can either visible on front (Right side of fabric or inward(wrong side of fabric)).

2.Shaped Facing:- These facings are cut exactly in same shape of neckline. The pastings or interfacings are used to provide shape of neckline.

Example:- Suits necklines.

3.All Over Facings:-It is used to neated finish the dresses that does not have sleeves so it finishes the neckline and armhole together.

Construction(Bias):- Cut a bios strip of 1''or 1/4''.

• Stitches the bias strip to edge of garment with half leg stitch.
• The fabric should be right side facing.
• Fold the bios strip towards wrong side of fabric an iron the seem or the neck shape.
• Fold the remaining strip under side an hemp the edges.

2. Construction(Shaped):- Cut a straight piece of fabric.

• Placed on the right side together.
• Stitch the fabric along with the neckline shape.
• Cut out the extra fabric but have almost.1'' of fabric remained.
• Mark notches to give shape like V, round, escape.
• Fold the fabric inside and stitch or do hamming.
• "While stitching never pull fabric or straight applied either inform of pipings or facings".

Binding:- Binding is used to finish and strengthen the raw edges and strengthen and to add decorative trim to a garment.

• It shows both on right and the wrong side of the garment.
• In this a bios strip is attached on neckline and armholes.
• Bios binding should have uniform width and should line flat and smooth without any stitches so on right side of garment. It can be same fabric of contrast fabric.

There are two types of bias binding:-

1. Single Binding
2. Double Bias/French Binding

1.Single Binding:- Single binding means that the sides are folded to the middle and pressed, the Single Fold, One fold is opened and the raw edge.

2.Double bias/French Binding:-Double fold bias tape is a fabric that is cut on the diagonal (the bias) and then pressed into quarters along its length. It can be used for decorative purposes or to finish an otherwise raw edge. If you look in your cupboard you are bound to see several tops and dresses with double fold bias necklines and armholes.

Construction:-Cut a bios strip of 1''or 1/4''.

• Stitches the bias strip to edge of garment with half leg stitch.
• The fabric should be right side facing.
• Fold the bios strip towards wrong side of fabric an iron the seem or the neck shape.
• Fold the remaining strip under side an hemp the edges.

Pleats And Its Types

                                                                    Pleats

When the extra width of material is folded over systematically to dispose of fullness in the garment is known as Pleats.

• Mostly fold fabric is seamed with upper seam.
• Pleats are added to any garment for decoration or adding flared to it.

Need Of Pleats(Importance of Pleats)

• To make flared in garment.
• To dispose of fullness in garment.
• To give a decorative touch to garment.

Types Of Pleats

Pleats are used to generate designs and also to get a good fitting in a garment.

Pleats can be of following types:-

1. Straight Pleats:- These are simple and one sided pleats. The extra width kept for is folded over and decrease to fit of garment.

• All pleats must be facing in same direction.
• The width and fold should be even and equal.
• These kinds of pleats generally used in skirts and frocks.
  

2.Box pleats :- The fabric is folded on right side and stitched length wise for about 2''-4'' from the edge.

• The broad pleat is then creased by burning the creased over the seam.
• The two equal piece obtained on either side of the seam and known as Box Pleats.
• These are generally used in men's garment.

3.Inverted Pleats:-When box pleats is made on wrong side of the fabric is known as inverted Pleats.

4. Meet Pleats:- When the extra fabric is folded from both side to meet in the center and is stitched at both top and bottom edge is known as Meet Pleats.

5.Knife Pleats:- This is made like inverted pleats.

• It is stitched on both the upper and lower edge but is left open in center.
• This kind of pleat generally used in uniform.

6. Falls Pleats:- When a pleat is made in order to conceal deflect in garment construction known as Falls Pleats.

Skirts And its Types

 SKIRTS

Skirts is a type of fabric that surrounds the body from the waist down. While designing the skirts, the two most important factors to keep in mind are silhouettes & the length. Silhouettes refers to the shape of skirt which depends on the amount of ease in the garment.

The skirts are styled in four basic shapes:-

• Straight
• Pegged
• Flared
• Sheath Skirt

Classification of skirt on the basis of length:-

1. Micromini Skirt:- A skirt which ends up to widest part of things is micromini skirt.
2. Mini Skirt:- A skirt that is located some where between the widest part of thighs & above knees(short length skirt).
3. Short Skirt:- The skirt hemline located between the widest part of thigh & above the knees.
4. Knee Length Skirt:- A skirt the hemline of which ends up to knee level.
5. Midi:- A skirt the hemline of which ends below the knee or ends to up to the calf.
6. Maxi:- A skirt, the hemline of which ends around the widest part of lower length.
7. Ankle Length Skirt:- A skirt, the hemline of which ends around the ankle bone.
8. Floor Length:- A skirt that touches the floor length.

Types Of Skirts

1. Gathered Skirts:- It's the simplest kind of skirt to make and consequently is often a beginner's first sewing project. The stiff fabric accentuates the hips and hangs away from the body. A soft fabric elings to the body and creates a more natural silhouette.
2. A Line Skirts:-Skirts in the shape of alphabet' A'. It is narrow at the waist with/without darts and a little wide at the bottom used in casual garments to executive.
3. Straight Skirts:- The side seams of straight skirt are aligned with the straight grain of the fabric and the cross-grain runs across the hips from side seam to side seam. The drop (difference between the size of the hip and the waist ) is removed with darts or gathers.
4. Circular Skirts:- (Half/Full) This skirt can be half circular, or fall circular, or for the most exaggerated look, several full circles seam together of all skirts, this one is the widest at the hemline. It has a small waist, and the skirts pattern looks like a doughnut. It also wastes a great deal of fabric and is difficult to hem because it mostly on the bias. When a very full skirt is desired, especially for evening wear, several circular shapes can be put together for a dramatic effect. Half circular shirt is the most wearable version of this silhouette. It has a modified and graceful flare that is more easily cut from fabric of average width, fall out (waste fabric) is still a consideration.
5. Flared Skirts:- A flared skirt is wider at the hem than at the waist.
6. Gored Skirts:- A Gored skirt often has a centre back seam (with a zipper opening) that divides the back into two gores. A gored skirt is named by counting the number of gores. It does not have to be divided equally in front and back.
7. Pencil Skirts:- This is similar to striped skirt but narrow at hemline with back slit opened more comfortably.
8. Pegged:- A Pegged skirt is wider at the waist line and the excess fabric is gathered or draped into a wrist band. The side seams are tapered at the hemline. Variations include the surround tie, asymmetrical drape and nobble skirt. 
9. Wrap Around Skirts:- A skirt fitted at waist and possesses a wrapped opening used is casual and executive wear.
10. Pleated Skirts:- Generally pleated skirts are straight pieces of heat sensitive fabric that are pleated commercially fabrics made from fibre that do not down pose under height heat such as polyester, acrylic or blends of these fibres are best for pleating both knit and woven fabrics can be pleated.
11. Tulips Skirts:- A Skirt having an overlapping of curve style lines in front like a tulip.
12. Petal Skirts:-A skirt having more than two overlapping of curve style lines in front which give an effect of petals.
13. Godet Skirts :- A skirt in which triangular pieces of fabric are sewn by cutting in hemline up to a depth get more flare at hem. used in lehengas and western bridal wear.
14. Tiered Skirts:- A skirt with tiers pieces of uniform or non-uniform lengths stitched with each other at edges. The tiers vary in width, narrow from top and wide at bottom. used in skirts for teenagers.
15. Layered Skirts:- A skirt with layers of fabric sewn at waist. These layers vary in lengths with or without gathers.
16. Sarong Skirts:- A rectangular fabric is tied around waist in a knot to\ form shirt. The sarong and other asymmetrically draped skirts were popular during the late 1940's. They were worn for street wear as well as evening wear . The wrap sarong over a bathing suit has become a classic.
17. Handkerchief:- A skirt which is cut in the centre of the square so as to stitch around waist with corners hanging at hem. used in a beach wear and is in fashion these days.
18. Yoked Skirts:-A Yoke is a horizontal division in a garment. A skirt yoke can eliminate darts and gores by fitting the fabric over the hips and forming the foundation for the flared or pleated portion of the skirt. This is an effective way to make a skirt fir smoothly under a long top. The yoke should end 2 inches above the hem of the top so that the yoke seam is not visible.
19. Flounce Skirts :- It is cut in two section, the upper one straight fitted and the lower one flounce. It is used in evening dresses.
20. Balloon Skirts:- A skirt with hemline on fold turned up till waist. The fullness is achieved by stitching double turned up fabric layer also with upper fabric layer. The hem is like a balloon used in kids wear.

   21.Peplum Skirts:- A peplum is kind of short skirt cut as a flounce or flared tier, sewn on to the waist line of bodice or skirt.

Cuffs And Its Types

CUFFS

• A Cuff is a band at the bottom of sleeves.
• It may be part of sleeves turned back on itself or a separate piece attached to the sleeve.
• It must be wide enough or have an opening at the bottom to allow a hand to pass through it.
• Another element that matters when it comes to the varies outfits is the type of cuffs used.
• It is non-essential part of any sleeve but mandatory in formal wear.
• Clothing supporting cuffs with lace were first seen between the 15th and 18th centuries.
• It is an additional piece of fabric sew at the end of sleeves.
• It serves as an enclosure to the wrists ,and it comes in various styles.
• Cuffs began to indicate the formality level of the shirt.
• It is deemed that cuffs with links are the most formal in the fashion world, while those with buttons are the least formal.

How to customized Attire with types of cuffs:-

• There are different ways to customize the style of different types of cuffs you are wearing while you can find different types of cuffs readily available at stores, you will need to have them custom made most of the time.

Shape:-When it comes to shapes, the most common among the cuffs are mitered, rounded, square, Among the three the most subtle and most common are round cuffs.

• The square type is less common but looks good in casual attire.
• Mitered type of cuff are seen as the most formal and elegant among these.
• The corner of the mitered cuffs are angle at 45' and looks stylish.
• On the other hand straight cuffs or square cuffs have angled corners.
• Rounded cuffs have rounded top corners.

Collars:-You can find out of contrasting collars or with same monochrome collars for a long time white cuffs and collars have been used in non-while shirts.

Cuffs are classified in three categorized:-

Cuffs

1. Casual:- Straight with size zip.

• Elasticated divided.

     2.Elegant:- Edge with frill.

• With puff links.
• With fringes.

     3. Stitched:- Stitched with cuffs.

• Stitched turned gap.

Types of Cuffs

1. French/Double back cuffs
2. British/Button/Barrel cuffs
3. Cocktail cuffs
4. Convertible cuffs
5. Single cuffs
6. Men's tailored cuffs
7. Long Fitted cuffs
8. Band cuffs
9. Ruffles cuffs

1.French/Double back cuffs:- It is also known as classic cuffs.

• This dressy cuffs style is popular in England.
• Its name comes from the fact that it doubles back over itself.
• These cuffs need cufflinks to close them at the wrist.
• These have button hole on both side of cuffs for cufflinks.
• Used by noble peoples.
• A black tie event is among the rare occasions when this kind of cuff is obligatory.
• Generally, has no pasting in cuffs.
• The cuff style will add classiness and personality.
• It is a norm to wear French cuffs with your business suit every working day.

2.Barrel:- This style is considered the most common types of cuffs and they are common on casual wear and business attire.

• They are typically done with two horizontally placed buttons with 3/4 inch space in between.
• Somewhere the buttons are placed vertically, but only seen this style in custom-made or fashion forward shirts.
• King George has started it, it does not have cuff links instead buttons are used.
• Initially started by noble people but later wear by general pubic too.

3.Cocktail:-It's a traditional style of cuffs.

• This cuff style goes by many names-Turn back cuff, James Bond cuff, The Portofino cuff, and The Casino cuff.
• The Cocktail cuff is a barrel cuff with a double-length cuff folded over until the hems form a diagonal line.
• It is just double in length than other cuffs which are folded upward.
• Especially got popularized after James Bond movie "Dr. No".
• It has since then adopted by specialists as one of the most well-regarded fashion styles.

4.Convertible Cuff:- Convertible types of cuffs are not common, and you will only find them as an option in shops that after custom-made clothing.

• More often than not, they are a double cuff, but some brands make them similar to barrel to barrel. Cuffs with an added hole between the buttons.
• Convertible types of cuffs.
• Convertible cuffs are quickly rising in popularity due to their versatility. wearers can trick the button to hide it internally , making room for the addition of a cufflink.
• This is particularly suitable for people who want to wear cufflinks for a formal occasion yet fasten the buttons in all other circumstances.

5.Single Cuff:- This Cuff looks like a barrel cuff but fattens differently.

• Single cuffs can be closed using a cufflink.
• It is rare to find them off the rack since they are rarely used.
• They only look good and neat  on wing collar shirts used in a white tie ensemble.

6.Men's Tailored Cuffs:- For a slightly larger and more interesting casual cuff consider the soft square two button.

• The unfused cuff bands and conforms to the wrist much easier and generally have box pleat or knife pleat, gathers at centre.
• These have 2 buttons.

7.Long Fitted Cuffs:-As the name suggest these fitted cuffs of general length vary from 3"-6".

• These are directly attached to sleeves with 2-3 gather , have no placket attached.

8.Band Cuffs:- For long puff sleeve.

• Used to finish the edge of sleeve, the cuff is used as band.
• The width of these cuff are 1.5 and 2".

9.Ruffle Cuffs:- Typically used in girls wear.

• The fabric used in these cuffs are shimmer thin & light weight fabric.
• No hemming is done at the end of these cuffs only Pico is done.

Yokes And Its Types

         YOKES 

• Yokes is the frame of the fabric that placed around the neck.
• Yokes are used for fitting and decoration of any garment.
• yokes affer a great opportunities for design variation.
• It is extra fabric used for designing in garment.
• It is attached on opening part of garment, and can be of same and different fabric.
• Yoke can be seen on upper and lower torso garments, at neck waist.
• It is based on geometric shapes.
• Tucks, pleats, gathers, embroidery prints, laces and anything can be attached on yokes.
• To give extra bounce and fitting to garment yoke is added.
• We need to be carefully selects the shape of yoke as it can destroy the over all look of any garment.
• It is functional like on gent's shirts, nighty,small bodice block and can be decorative like on top, kurti,skirts.
• It's the part of a garment that can be decorative or structural.
• Decorative yoke ensure that the structure of the clothing is emphasized.
• Yokes are separate part of a garment.
• Variations in garments can be created using yokes.
• Proper placements of yoke is very important.
• Yokes are of two types,namely yokes without fullness(basic yokes)and yokes with fullness(decorative yokes).
• Yokes can be introduce in a garment to release fullness and for ease of movement.
• It is used for supporting loose parts of the clothing. Wide yokes provide a low slung look on pants.
• A yoke is a shaped pattern piece that forms part of a garment.

TYPES OF YOKES

There are two types of yokes:-

Basic Yoke:- From the name itself the basic yoke is a simple or plain yoke that you cut and join according to the garment's structure.

• This yoke is a part of the garment which is cut and joined with a piping or seam, typically seen on the front and back of men's shirt.

Decorative yoke:- The decorative yoke adds visual interest to the garment.so other than using a contrasting colour fabric for the yoke, the sewer can also add piping to its edges for additional styling.

• Use of various tucks, pleats and frills add interest to the garment.
• Yokes of desired shape can be cut and stitched.

YOKES BASED ON THEIR SHAPES

 

      1.Straigt Yokes:- This Yoke is generally used in shirts and night dresses.

• This yokes is straight at the bottom and yoke length is approx...armhole depth,
• It may be increasing or reduced.
• To individual,straight yokes will ensure that the parts will full straight perfectly.

       2.Round Yokes:-This yoke is used for night wear like night suits, gowns and also in                                          baby frocks and    tops.

•   It can also use in any type of embroidery, smoking.
• This yoke shape is round and the preferable neck with this yokes round.
• Upwards are yokes give shape to the garment to enhance the rear part of women's clothing.

      3. Square yokes:-This yoke is square in shape .

• This yoke is used in low waist line dress,night dress and kids wears.
• This yoke length is approx...14'',15'' ace.

    4. V-Shape yoke:- V-Shape yoke is generally use in low waist line dress.

• The yoke shape is ''V'' and the preferable neck line is round and V-Shaped yokes and curves to the features of the jeans that you seat on, while inverted yokes ensure a fuller seat since the middle part of it is higher than the seams outside.

   5.Glass Shape yoke:-It is used in baby dress, night dress and suits.

• It may be decorative with embroidery and laces.

  6.Saddle yokes:- It is decorative yoke in shape saddle(matka) used in stylish garments.

• It is waist level yoke with many cuts and curves.