Monday 30 January 2023

Necklines And Its Types

 Necklines

  • Necklines is an opening part of garment by which we wear it.
  • It is an essential trimming or part.
  • It is an opening live used to wear garment.
  • It is important for any garment.
  • Neckline does not have to be finished with a collar. It can be faced.
  • "Faced" A facing is a piece of fabric that corresponds exactly to the shape of a neckline".
  • It is sew to finish the row edges of necklines.
  • Necklines is a framework of any dress or garment.
  • If the necklines worsens, the whole look of a dress may destroy.
  • It can make difference between loops.
  • It is a centre of attraction of any garment. we cannot think about dresses without necklines.
  • It may affects the garment fitting it is loose or tight.
  • Neckline can be regular or essential part.
Types Of Necklines

  1. Basic Necklines
  2. Technical Necklines
  3. Designer's Necklines
1.Basic Necklines:- Basic Necklines are simple Necklines.

Example:-Round, Square, V-Shape.

  • In earlier Time the front and back both used to be same.
  • Till now we are stick on circular neckline.
2.Technical Necklines:- Based of these necklines are basic necklines. These are based on solid figures.

Example:- Round, Rectangle, Conical/V, Square.

  • It includes solid geometrical figures.
3.Designer's Necklines:- They are created by own imagination.

Designer's Necklines are classifies into two categorized.

1.Regular

2.Irregular

These are the variation of solid figures.

1.Regular :- These are based on normal neckline that require front, back and armhole in any garment.

Example:- String, Keyhole, Scoop, Sweetheart, Ladder.

2.Irregular:- These are not based on normal necklines and does not require armhole.

Example:- Off shoulder, 1 off shoulder.

Necklines Finishing

  • Neckline area is often the most decorative part of dresses blouse, shirts, because it is close to face and is noticed before the other part of garment.
  • The design an style of neckline and its finish should suit to wearer and should be appropriate two type of fabric.
  • Therefore one must take care in designing and finishing neckline.
  • If neckline is not rein forced by some kind of finish, it will starch and eventually loose  its shape and structure.
Types Of Finishing

  1. Piping
  2. Facing
  3. binding
1.Piping:- In sewing, piping is a type of trimming consisting of a strip of a folded fabric so as to form a "pipe" inserted into a sew to define the edges or style line of any garment.

  • Usually bias fabric strip is used.
  • It may be made from either same fabric or constricted fabric.
  • Piping is used to finish the curve edges.
Types Of Piping

  1. Single
  2. Cord
  3. Double
  4. Designer
1.Single:- These are simple piping which can be corded piping or inward facing piping.

2.Cord:- These are round shaped outward piping's synthetic wires, threads, wax, nylon thread are used.

3.Double:- These piping are outward piping the thread is passed through niddle in these piping.

4.Designer's:- It include frills, laces and layer of fabric stitch together.

Construction:- Basically used in circular and semi-circular shape to finish.

  • Cut bias straight at 45' to increase stretchability.
  • It is 1.5' wide bias strip, connect bios strip to form 1 long bios strip if required.
  • Applied the fabric on neckline and if a half leg seam.
  • After 3inch mark notches then turn up the fabric.
  • Make a toxin and iron the fabric.
  • Make hamming and then stitch shoulder.
  • while stitching double or corded "piping's"." Double or corded" place the piping or cord in layers of fabric facing right to each other.
2.Facing:- Facing are used to provide a neat finish to our edges in your garment and to support shape of neckline, armhole, collars, etc.
  • A Facing is a piece of fabric that is attached along an edge, then turned to lay flat on the underside of the edge to be faced.
  • Neither Seem lines nor facing should show from outside of finish garment. Facing also give decorative finish, if they are turned to right side of garment.
There are mainly three types of Facing:-
  1. Bias Facing
  2. Shaped Facing
  3. All Over Facing
1.Bias Facing:- In this type of facing a bios strip is used to finish the raw edges. It can be used on necklines , armholes. Bios facing can either visible on front (Right side of fabric or inward(wrong side of fabric)).

2.Shaped Facing:- These facings are cut exactly in same shape of neckline. The pastings or interfacings are used to provide shape of neckline.
Example:- Suits necklines.

3.All Over Facings:-It is used to neated finish the dresses that does not have sleeves so it finishes the neckline and armhole together.

Construction(Bias):- Cut a bios strip of 1''or 1/4''.

  • Stitches the bias strip to edge of garment with half leg stitch.
  • The fabric should be right side facing.
  • Fold the bios strip towards wrong side of fabric an iron the seem or the neck shape.
  • Fold the remaining strip under side an hemp the edges.

2. Construction(Shaped):- Cut a straight piece of fabric.

  • Placed on the right side together.
  • Stitch the fabric along with the neckline shape.
  • Cut out the extra fabric but have almost.1'' of fabric remained.
  • Mark notches to give shape like V, round, escape.
  • Fold the fabric inside and stitch or do hamming.
  • "While stitching never pull fabric or straight applied either inform of pipings or facings".
Binding:- Binding is used to finish and strengthen the raw edges and strengthen and to add decorative trim to a garment.
  • It shows both on right and the wrong side of the garment.
  • In this a bios strip is attached on neckline and armholes.
  • Bios binding should have uniform width and should line flat and smooth without any stitches so on right side of garment. It can be same fabric of contrast fabric.
There are two types of bias binding:-
  1. Single Binding
  2. Double Bias/French Binding

1.Single Binding:- Single binding means that the sides are folded to the middle and pressed, the Single Fold, One fold is opened and the raw edge.

2.Double bias/French Binding:-Double fold bias tape is a fabric that is cut on the diagonal (the bias) and then pressed into quarters along its length. It can be used for decorative purposes or to finish an otherwise raw edge. If you look in your cupboard you are bound to see several tops and dresses with double fold bias necklines and armholes.

Construction:-Cut a bios strip of 1''or 1/4''.

  • Stitches the bias strip to edge of garment with half leg stitch.
  • The fabric should be right side facing.
  • Fold the bios strip towards wrong side of fabric an iron the seem or the neck shape.
  • Fold the remaining strip under side an hemp the edges.

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