Collars And Its Types

 Collars

Ø  It is a extra piece or part which is attached to neckline any give the firm shape to neck.

Ø  It is the most important detail of garment as it draws maximum attention.

Ø  It is a frame work of upper torso which add features to neckline.

Ø  It is an essential part to male garment as any default in collar can spoil the whole look of garment.

Ø  It is the edge of garment the surrounds the neck or shoulder in a neckline.

Ø  It gives new style to garment.

Ø  Basically, it opens the relation between neckline and shoulder.

The four factors that determine how is collar looks: -

1.Distance between the neckline and the end of the neck.

2.Height of the stand.

3.Shape and depth of the fall.

4.Lapel lit includes its size and shape.

5.Collar can be decorative or functional.

Classification of Collar 

1.Convertible

2.Non-Convertible

1.Convertible:-These are the collars which can be worn or closed.

Example: - Shirt Collar

2.Non-Convertible: -These are the collars which can be worn closed only.

Example: - Cape Collar

Shape of Collar

1.Flat Collar

2.Roll Collar

3.Stand Collar

1.Flat Collar:- It is the same shape as the neckline and sit flat at neck and over the shoulder.

2.Roll Collar:- It stands up at the neckline and then folds over to sit on the shoulder.

3.Stand Collar:- Stand Collar is a band which stands on neckline.

Parts Of Collar

1.Lapel:- It is a part of breast of a coat or jacket folded back, forming a continuation of  collar (depending on its shape and length) it is also known as Peak and Notch  level.

2.Stand:- It is the underneath part of the collar that supports the folded section. It is of varying heights according to the collar design.

3.Fall:- The upper part of collar which falls from the stand is called fall.

4.Revere:- A revere collar is part of the bodice fabric incorporated into the lapel the jacket front facing is an extra facing piece that can be extended to incorporate back collar as well as the revere.

5.Collar Edge(Style Line):- The Shape of the edge of collar.

6.Breaking Line:- It is a line on which the lapels turn back and the fall turn over the stand.

Types of Collar

There are different types of collars:-

1.Peter pan Collar:- These collar are Youthful and casual and can be varied in many ways it is a non-convertible collar with parallel, circular edge and divided in centre front if one piece is in front and the back also in case of two pieces.

2.Bow and Tie Collar:- In this collar strap of fabric is attached over the neck and tie above the collar bone (for high bow, tie) it is found in bodies top.

3.Shawl Collar:- It is a collar similar to coat collar with various style lines found in over garments. They are narrow collars generally found in double breasted coat.

4.Coat Collar:- A Collar form by lapels with varying style lines found in over garments the collar can be with narrow fall and broad lapel or vice-versa.

5.Convertible Collar:- It means shirt collar it can be worm closed or open .It has a stand of one inch as base, over which a fall of 2.5inches to 3” it can be developed with seam along the collar edge. It can be buttoned in front from both points.

6.Chinese Collar(Mandarine Collar):- It is a stand collar in the form of paralleled band touching circumference stiffened for being used to stand upright. The height of the collar is ¼”-1/5”. This is a foundation of other collar also. This may meet the centre front overlapped or can be extended to any point along the neckline.

7.Funnel Collar:- The collar flares outward at the top of the neckline opening at the side or back. It is found in winter wear.

8.Turtle Collar:- When a collar is covering neck and is extended more and folds appears it become turtle collar. It touches neck and is found in knitted material garment.

9.Tennis Collar:- This collar is formed by knitted material. This Collar is developed in one piece. It is generally found in tennis shirt.

10.Ruffle Collar:- A narrow strip heaving gathers and attached with neckline, generally found in kids wear.

11.Chokar Collar:- This is a stand collar stitched on any neckline. Generally found in sweetheart or V neckline.

12.Cowl Collar:-Cowl Collar is separate piece of fabric attached to the garment. A cowl generally requires less fabric them regular cowl.

13.Gravel Collar:-This is a collar formed by attaching cloth bias with pleats on round neckline, generally found in female dresses.

14.Sailor Collar:- Traditionally a sailor collar is used in sailor uniform. Its V shape collar, bow tied in front and rectangular flapped at this is an a glass collar, appropriate, back, both young and old. The size and shape of collar can be altered for novelty variation.

15.Chelsea:- A flat collar stitched with deep V neckline of 2’’-2.5’’ width. Generally found in ladies one piece garment.

Precautions:-

1.Drafting:- Accurate measurement, correct design calculation, Line from X-axis to Y-axis should be straight and neat.

2.Pattern:- Pattern should have ease. Neckline should be clear, and have  notches for goal & proper shape.

3.Fabric Cutting:- Pattern should be placed according to green line. While fabric cutting, we should kept in mind about collar that it is convertible or Non-Convertible. Lining should be of same size while stitching edges, notches should match the marks.

4.Stitching:- Seam should be on marked lines, it should have enough margins, edges should be turned up properly.