Darts

                                 Darts

Darts are wedge shaped area used for shaping a flat part of fabric to fit the figure.

• Darts are used to dispose of fullness in a garment or to mold the garment to the body and give a good fit.
• The extra cloth is taken up at the back of garment and stitched along the line indicated in the pattern.
• Dart is a diagonal line stitched on a fabric for fitting and fullness.
• It remove excess width or length and hold fabric in desired shape.
• Darts just end above and below the fullest part.
• Darts can be functional or decorative.

Need Of Darts

• To give shape and fullness to a garment.
• To make the garment well fitted.
• To make garment decorative attractive.
• Darts always move in clockwise direction.
• Darts are essential and never applied on pockets.

Types of Darts

1.Single-Point Darts

2.Double-Point Darts

1.Single Point Darts:- This type of dart is used in bloused, frock and waist of trouser. It is wide at one at one end and pointed at other end.

• When the cloth is overlapped about 1-2cm and stitched in a tapering manner till it reaches a single point, it is known as Single Point Dart.
• These darts are generally used to dispose of fullness at particular place in garment from where they derive their names.

Ø  Waist dart:-This dart is used to give fitting at waist, used in blouse, frock.

• Side dart:-This dart is used in blouses, coats, etc.

• Used to dispose of fullness at bust.
• It is varied from wide to narrow according to bust measurement.

• Armhole dart:-This is made like waist dart and side dart.

• It starts from the curve of armhole and tapers inside towards the centre.

• Centre Dart:-It is also known as bust dart.

• It could be given either straight or diagonally.
• In ladies blouse, it is given diagonally from centre front line tapers inside towards the centre.

• Fish Dart:-This dart is shaped like a fish.

• It starts out narrow and then wides slightly and then tapers out a point.
• This dart is used while joining the bodice to the sleeve.
• It shape like fish hence, called Fish Dart.

2.Double Point Dart:-Double pointed darts have pointed ends at the top and bottom and are wide at the centre.

• It is generally used in ladies shirts and in the back of men’s shirt.

Ø  French Dart:-When a double point dart is made in a garment and cut from the centre.

• It is known as French Dart.
• It is made in ladies kurtas from bust point to Hip.

Ø  Press Open Dart:-When dart is pressed flat after being made, it generally used in garments made from heavy fabric.

Darts Principles

1.Dart Manipulation:- A dart may be transferred to any location around the pattern outline from the designated pivotal point without affecting the size or fit of garment.

·         Single Dart:- When we remove extra fabric according to the figure or design.

·         Multiple Dart:- When we give multiple darts to fabric to balance the fit.

Example:- When our waist is narrow and bust is heavier & to give shape to armhole & shoulder, we add darts.

2.Adding Principle:- When access fullness is required is greater than that of darts, the slash and spread method is used in patterns. The length and width within the pattern outline must be increased.

3.Contouring:- To fit the contours of upper torso than the basic garment, the pattern must be reduced within its frame to fit the dimension of body, above & below & in between the bust mounts and shoulder. Absorbing the dart excess into the style line to create contoured silhouettes.

Example:- Princess Line.