Sleeves

Sleeves

• Sleeve is a Dutch word derived from word slip.
• It is a part of garments that proper the arms covers or grow passes arms in a slip in that particular fabric.
• It is a non-essential part but can be consider as designing part.
• It is the characteristics of fashion in a dress which has many variations in every country and various time periods.
• It is a fashionable attire and the part of dress for both male or females.
• In early centuries the length of shoulder is increased to create sleeves but after fifteenth century sleeves created their space an in fashion industry and turned up the whole fashion.
• There are various length of sleeves that is it can be short, elbow, 3/4^th, fall, 7/8^th, wrist.
• It is a designing part which requires special tailors for making it, like:- gathered sleeve, tulip sleeve, Patel sleeve, bell shaped, flared sleeve etc.
• Sometimes access of fabric is also used to decorate the sleeve.
• Various fabrics can also be used from thin, glossy, thick etc.

Types of Sleeve

1.Set-In-Sleeve:-It is a very common sleeve which required both bodice block and sleeve block where armholes are attached together.

·         Arm is  most mobile part of body which required free movements.

·         Set -in -Sleeve design to fit the armhole smoothly.

2.Set-Out-Sleeves/Extended Sleeves: - Sleeves and the body of any garment is combine together.

·         It requires more fabric.

·         There are lots of sleeves which a sewn together without set in method.

·         The sleeves does not required separate sleeve pattern for cutting and generally are extended from shoulder.

·         There are mainly various types of extended sleeves.

1.Dolman/Batwing Sleeve:- There is usually no seam connecting the sleeve to the bodice, but is instead cut as one with the bodice.

·         This sleeve style is popular on tops and sweaters mostly, but can be used in other upper body garment types.

2.Drop Shoulder Sleeve:- A drop shoulder sleeve is used for more casual wear clothing types, common in casual shirts but also other garments like loose fit denim jackets and oversized sweaters.

·         Sleeves where the armhole position falls on the top of the arm area.

3.Kimono sleeves:- A Kimono sleeve is a ‘grown on’ sleeve there are no seam from the neckline, and side seam.

·         The pattern of the sleeves is cut together with the bodice.

·         It is used mostly for sportswear, kids wear, dance costume and ladies top.

4. Raglan Sleeve:- It is mostly used for sports-wear, kids wear, T-shirt.

·         It does not have any armhole seam and shoulder seam.

·         A raglan sleeve is joined with a seam running at a diagonal from the underarm up to the front and back necklines.

3.Designer Sleeves

Ø  Cap Sleeves:- Cap sleeves are a short sleeve that just covers the shoulder.

• It usually ends before or just under the arm
• Cap sleeves are mainly fitted and are a flattering type of sleeve.
• Most often, the cap sleeve is a separate shaped piece but the cap can also be joined to the bodice and created as an attached sleeve.

Ø  Bishop Sleeves:- A bishop sleeve flares out from the shoulder, giving volume to the sleeve all the way to the cuff, where the fabric is tightly gathered.

Ø  Puffed Sleeves:- A puffed sleeve is gathered at the shoulder and at the seam but is full and “puffy” in the middle.

Ø  Ruffled sleeves:- A narrow sleeves attached with armhole having gathers. usually found in kids wear, ladies garments.

Ø  Layered Sleeves:-Sleeves with layers of fabric with same and different length. It has layer of ruffles.

Ø  Cowl Sleeves:-It is a one-piece cutting, loose cowls or folds in centre of sleeves found in or can be seen in kids garments, gowns, frocks mainly.

Ø  Draw String Sleeves:- Draw string sleeves which has string, when pulled gives affect of gathered. It is in double length of full sleeves.

Ø  Lantern Sleeves:-A Lantern sleeve is a long sleeve that balloons out between the wrist and the elbow and then gathers again around the wrist.

Ø  Leg-of-mutton-sleeves:-This sleeve is gathered and puffed by the shoulder and upper arm and then fitted on the forearm. This style of sleeve somewhat resembles a sheep’s leg, hence the name.

Ø  Petal Sleeve:-A Petal sleeve is a type of sleeve that is fitted at the shoulder and then flows out into a series of petals. It is a very flittering sleeve style for many different body types.

Ø  Tulip Sleeve:- These are similar like petal shape but pattern repeats. The sleeve is sewn into the armhole in such a way that the pattern overlaps on the arm.

Ø  Bell Sleeves:-Also called peasant sleeves, this long sleeve is fitted around the shoulder and upper arm and flares out to the waist, like a bell.

Darts

                                 Darts

Darts are wedge shaped area used for shaping a flat part of fabric to fit the figure.

• Darts are used to dispose of fullness in a garment or to mold the garment to the body and give a good fit.
• The extra cloth is taken up at the back of garment and stitched along the line indicated in the pattern.
• Dart is a diagonal line stitched on a fabric for fitting and fullness.
• It remove excess width or length and hold fabric in desired shape.
• Darts just end above and below the fullest part.
• Darts can be functional or decorative.

Need Of Darts

• To give shape and fullness to a garment.
• To make the garment well fitted.
• To make garment decorative attractive.
• Darts always move in clockwise direction.
• Darts are essential and never applied on pockets.

Types of Darts

1.Single-Point Darts

2.Double-Point Darts

1.Single Point Darts:- This type of dart is used in bloused, frock and waist of trouser. It is wide at one at one end and pointed at other end.

• When the cloth is overlapped about 1-2cm and stitched in a tapering manner till it reaches a single point, it is known as Single Point Dart.
• These darts are generally used to dispose of fullness at particular place in garment from where they derive their names.

Ø  Waist dart:-This dart is used to give fitting at waist, used in blouse, frock.

• Side dart:-This dart is used in blouses, coats, etc.

• Used to dispose of fullness at bust.
• It is varied from wide to narrow according to bust measurement.

• Armhole dart:-This is made like waist dart and side dart.

• It starts from the curve of armhole and tapers inside towards the centre.

• Centre Dart:-It is also known as bust dart.

• It could be given either straight or diagonally.
• In ladies blouse, it is given diagonally from centre front line tapers inside towards the centre.

• Fish Dart:-This dart is shaped like a fish.

• It starts out narrow and then wides slightly and then tapers out a point.
• This dart is used while joining the bodice to the sleeve.
• It shape like fish hence, called Fish Dart.

2.Double Point Dart:-Double pointed darts have pointed ends at the top and bottom and are wide at the centre.

• It is generally used in ladies shirts and in the back of men’s shirt.

Ø  French Dart:-When a double point dart is made in a garment and cut from the centre.

• It is known as French Dart.
• It is made in ladies kurtas from bust point to Hip.

Ø  Press Open Dart:-When dart is pressed flat after being made, it generally used in garments made from heavy fabric.

Darts Principles

1.Dart Manipulation:- A dart may be transferred to any location around the pattern outline from the designated pivotal point without affecting the size or fit of garment.

·         Single Dart:- When we remove extra fabric according to the figure or design.

·         Multiple Dart:- When we give multiple darts to fabric to balance the fit.

Example:- When our waist is narrow and bust is heavier & to give shape to armhole & shoulder, we add darts.

2.Adding Principle:- When access fullness is required is greater than that of darts, the slash and spread method is used in patterns. The length and width within the pattern outline must be increased.

3.Contouring:- To fit the contours of upper torso than the basic garment, the pattern must be reduced within its frame to fit the dimension of body, above & below & in between the bust mounts and shoulder. Absorbing the dart excess into the style line to create contoured silhouettes.

Example:- Princess Line.

 

 

Tucks

Tucks

• When Fabric is folded from the right side and a seem is made in a particular direction and of even width, It Is known as Tucks.
• It is a decorative stitch.
• The seem is visible on the right side of fabric.
• Tucks can be handmade or machine stitched.
• Tucks are used to make garment attractive for creating designs.

Need of Tucks

• To give decorative touch to a garment.
• To hide defects in garment construction.
• To dispose of fullness to a garment.

Types of Tucks

There can be of following types:-

1.       Pin Tucks

2.       Square Tucks

3.       Cross Tucks

4.       Corded Tucks

5.       Shell Tucks

6.       Graduated Tucks

1.Pin Tucks:-These tucks are as thin as a pin. Hence are called Pin Tucks. These are made by machine of even width.

·         These are used to make garment attractive.

·         These can be made in any direction and get their name according to shape they are made like horizontal, vertical, diagonal Tucks.

2.Square Tucks:-These are made in square shape.

·         Longitudinal and horizontal Tucks are made to intersect in order to creative a square tucks.

·         Generally used in ladies & kids wear.

3.Cross Tucks:- These are diamond shaped and are made by criss-crossed diagonal Tucks.

4.Corded Tucks:-These are slightly thicker tucks.

·         A corded is placed on the wrong side of the fabric and the tuck is made or right side by holding the cord within the fold of the fabric.

                             5.Shell Tucks:-These Tucks are very different from other tucks.

·         The edge of the fabric is taken up about half”-1” and given a double stitch by hand at regular intervals.

·         These kind of tucks are generally used in ladies and children’s garment.

6.Graduated Tucks:-When many tucks are to be given the width of each successive tuck is generally increase.

·         They appearance is of graduated Tucks.

Collars And Its Types

 Collars

Ø  It is a extra piece or part which is attached to neckline any give the firm shape to neck.

Ø  It is the most important detail of garment as it draws maximum attention.

Ø  It is a frame work of upper torso which add features to neckline.

Ø  It is an essential part to male garment as any default in collar can spoil the whole look of garment.

Ø  It is the edge of garment the surrounds the neck or shoulder in a neckline.

Ø  It gives new style to garment.

Ø  Basically, it opens the relation between neckline and shoulder.

The four factors that determine how is collar looks: -

1.Distance between the neckline and the end of the neck.

2.Height of the stand.

3.Shape and depth of the fall.

4.Lapel lit includes its size and shape.

5.Collar can be decorative or functional.

Classification of Collar 

1.Convertible

2.Non-Convertible

1.Convertible:-These are the collars which can be worn or closed.

Example: - Shirt Collar

2.Non-Convertible: -These are the collars which can be worn closed only.

Example: - Cape Collar

Shape of Collar

1.Flat Collar

2.Roll Collar

3.Stand Collar

1.Flat Collar:- It is the same shape as the neckline and sit flat at neck and over the shoulder.

2.Roll Collar:- It stands up at the neckline and then folds over to sit on the shoulder.

3.Stand Collar:- Stand Collar is a band which stands on neckline.

Parts Of Collar

1.Lapel:- It is a part of breast of a coat or jacket folded back, forming a continuation of  collar (depending on its shape and length) it is also known as Peak and Notch  level.

2.Stand:- It is the underneath part of the collar that supports the folded section. It is of varying heights according to the collar design.

3.Fall:- The upper part of collar which falls from the stand is called fall.

4.Revere:- A revere collar is part of the bodice fabric incorporated into the lapel the jacket front facing is an extra facing piece that can be extended to incorporate back collar as well as the revere.

5.Collar Edge(Style Line):- The Shape of the edge of collar.

6.Breaking Line:- It is a line on which the lapels turn back and the fall turn over the stand.

Types of Collar

There are different types of collars:-

1.Peter pan Collar:- These collar are Youthful and casual and can be varied in many ways it is a non-convertible collar with parallel, circular edge and divided in centre front if one piece is in front and the back also in case of two pieces.

2.Bow and Tie Collar:- In this collar strap of fabric is attached over the neck and tie above the collar bone (for high bow, tie) it is found in bodies top.

3.Shawl Collar:- It is a collar similar to coat collar with various style lines found in over garments. They are narrow collars generally found in double breasted coat.

4.Coat Collar:- A Collar form by lapels with varying style lines found in over garments the collar can be with narrow fall and broad lapel or vice-versa.

5.Convertible Collar:- It means shirt collar it can be worm closed or open .It has a stand of one inch as base, over which a fall of 2.5inches to 3” it can be developed with seam along the collar edge. It can be buttoned in front from both points.

6.Chinese Collar(Mandarine Collar):- It is a stand collar in the form of paralleled band touching circumference stiffened for being used to stand upright. The height of the collar is ¼”-1/5”. This is a foundation of other collar also. This may meet the centre front overlapped or can be extended to any point along the neckline.

7.Funnel Collar:- The collar flares outward at the top of the neckline opening at the side or back. It is found in winter wear.

8.Turtle Collar:- When a collar is covering neck and is extended more and folds appears it become turtle collar. It touches neck and is found in knitted material garment.

9.Tennis Collar:- This collar is formed by knitted material. This Collar is developed in one piece. It is generally found in tennis shirt.

10.Ruffle Collar:- A narrow strip heaving gathers and attached with neckline, generally found in kids wear.

11.Chokar Collar:- This is a stand collar stitched on any neckline. Generally found in sweetheart or V neckline.

12.Cowl Collar:-Cowl Collar is separate piece of fabric attached to the garment. A cowl generally requires less fabric them regular cowl.

13.Gravel Collar:-This is a collar formed by attaching cloth bias with pleats on round neckline, generally found in female dresses.

14.Sailor Collar:- Traditionally a sailor collar is used in sailor uniform. Its V shape collar, bow tied in front and rectangular flapped at this is an a glass collar, appropriate, back, both young and old. The size and shape of collar can be altered for novelty variation.

15.Chelsea:- A flat collar stitched with deep V neckline of 2’’-2.5’’ width. Generally found in ladies one piece garment.

Precautions:-

1.Drafting:- Accurate measurement, correct design calculation, Line from X-axis to Y-axis should be straight and neat.

2.Pattern:- Pattern should have ease. Neckline should be clear, and have  notches for goal & proper shape.

3.Fabric Cutting:- Pattern should be placed according to green line. While fabric cutting, we should kept in mind about collar that it is convertible or Non-Convertible. Lining should be of same size while stitching edges, notches should match the marks.

4.Stitching:- Seam should be on marked lines, it should have enough margins, edges should be turned up properly.