Sleeves

Sleeves

• Sleeve is a Dutch word derived from word slip.
• It is a part of garments that proper the arms covers or grow passes arms in a slip in that particular fabric.
• It is a non-essential part but can be consider as designing part.
• It is the characteristics of fashion in a dress which has many variations in every country and various time periods.
• It is a fashionable attire and the part of dress for both male or females.
• In early centuries the length of shoulder is increased to create sleeves but after fifteenth century sleeves created their space an in fashion industry and turned up the whole fashion.
• There are various length of sleeves that is it can be short, elbow, 3/4^th, fall, 7/8^th, wrist.
• It is a designing part which requires special tailors for making it, like:- gathered sleeve, tulip sleeve, Patel sleeve, bell shaped, flared sleeve etc.
• Sometimes access of fabric is also used to decorate the sleeve.
• Various fabrics can also be used from thin, glossy, thick etc.

Types of Sleeve

1.Set-In-Sleeve:-It is a very common sleeve which required both bodice block and sleeve block where armholes are attached together.

·         Arm is  most mobile part of body which required free movements.

·         Set -in -Sleeve design to fit the armhole smoothly.

2.Set-Out-Sleeves/Extended Sleeves: - Sleeves and the body of any garment is combine together.

·         It requires more fabric.

·         There are lots of sleeves which a sewn together without set in method.

·         The sleeves does not required separate sleeve pattern for cutting and generally are extended from shoulder.

·         There are mainly various types of extended sleeves.

1.Dolman/Batwing Sleeve:- There is usually no seam connecting the sleeve to the bodice, but is instead cut as one with the bodice.

·         This sleeve style is popular on tops and sweaters mostly, but can be used in other upper body garment types.

2.Drop Shoulder Sleeve:- A drop shoulder sleeve is used for more casual wear clothing types, common in casual shirts but also other garments like loose fit denim jackets and oversized sweaters.

·         Sleeves where the armhole position falls on the top of the arm area.

3.Kimono sleeves:- A Kimono sleeve is a ‘grown on’ sleeve there are no seam from the neckline, and side seam.

·         The pattern of the sleeves is cut together with the bodice.

·         It is used mostly for sportswear, kids wear, dance costume and ladies top.

4. Raglan Sleeve:- It is mostly used for sports-wear, kids wear, T-shirt.

·         It does not have any armhole seam and shoulder seam.

·         A raglan sleeve is joined with a seam running at a diagonal from the underarm up to the front and back necklines.

3.Designer Sleeves

Ø  Cap Sleeves:- Cap sleeves are a short sleeve that just covers the shoulder.

• It usually ends before or just under the arm
• Cap sleeves are mainly fitted and are a flattering type of sleeve.
• Most often, the cap sleeve is a separate shaped piece but the cap can also be joined to the bodice and created as an attached sleeve.

Ø  Bishop Sleeves:- A bishop sleeve flares out from the shoulder, giving volume to the sleeve all the way to the cuff, where the fabric is tightly gathered.

Ø  Puffed Sleeves:- A puffed sleeve is gathered at the shoulder and at the seam but is full and “puffy” in the middle.

Ø  Ruffled sleeves:- A narrow sleeves attached with armhole having gathers. usually found in kids wear, ladies garments.

Ø  Layered Sleeves:-Sleeves with layers of fabric with same and different length. It has layer of ruffles.

Ø  Cowl Sleeves:-It is a one-piece cutting, loose cowls or folds in centre of sleeves found in or can be seen in kids garments, gowns, frocks mainly.

Ø  Draw String Sleeves:- Draw string sleeves which has string, when pulled gives affect of gathered. It is in double length of full sleeves.

Ø  Lantern Sleeves:-A Lantern sleeve is a long sleeve that balloons out between the wrist and the elbow and then gathers again around the wrist.

Ø  Leg-of-mutton-sleeves:-This sleeve is gathered and puffed by the shoulder and upper arm and then fitted on the forearm. This style of sleeve somewhat resembles a sheep’s leg, hence the name.

Ø  Petal Sleeve:-A Petal sleeve is a type of sleeve that is fitted at the shoulder and then flows out into a series of petals. It is a very flittering sleeve style for many different body types.

Ø  Tulip Sleeve:- These are similar like petal shape but pattern repeats. The sleeve is sewn into the armhole in such a way that the pattern overlaps on the arm.

Ø  Bell Sleeves:-Also called peasant sleeves, this long sleeve is fitted around the shoulder and upper arm and flares out to the waist, like a bell.

Darts

                                 Darts

Darts are wedge shaped area used for shaping a flat part of fabric to fit the figure.

• Darts are used to dispose of fullness in a garment or to mold the garment to the body and give a good fit.
• The extra cloth is taken up at the back of garment and stitched along the line indicated in the pattern.
• Dart is a diagonal line stitched on a fabric for fitting and fullness.
• It remove excess width or length and hold fabric in desired shape.
• Darts just end above and below the fullest part.
• Darts can be functional or decorative.

Need Of Darts

• To give shape and fullness to a garment.
• To make the garment well fitted.
• To make garment decorative attractive.
• Darts always move in clockwise direction.
• Darts are essential and never applied on pockets.

Types of Darts

1.Single-Point Darts

2.Double-Point Darts

1.Single Point Darts:- This type of dart is used in bloused, frock and waist of trouser. It is wide at one at one end and pointed at other end.

• When the cloth is overlapped about 1-2cm and stitched in a tapering manner till it reaches a single point, it is known as Single Point Dart.
• These darts are generally used to dispose of fullness at particular place in garment from where they derive their names.

Ø  Waist dart:-This dart is used to give fitting at waist, used in blouse, frock.

• Side dart:-This dart is used in blouses, coats, etc.

• Used to dispose of fullness at bust.
• It is varied from wide to narrow according to bust measurement.

• Armhole dart:-This is made like waist dart and side dart.

• It starts from the curve of armhole and tapers inside towards the centre.

• Centre Dart:-It is also known as bust dart.

• It could be given either straight or diagonally.
• In ladies blouse, it is given diagonally from centre front line tapers inside towards the centre.

• Fish Dart:-This dart is shaped like a fish.

• It starts out narrow and then wides slightly and then tapers out a point.
• This dart is used while joining the bodice to the sleeve.
• It shape like fish hence, called Fish Dart.

2.Double Point Dart:-Double pointed darts have pointed ends at the top and bottom and are wide at the centre.

• It is generally used in ladies shirts and in the back of men’s shirt.

Ø  French Dart:-When a double point dart is made in a garment and cut from the centre.

• It is known as French Dart.
• It is made in ladies kurtas from bust point to Hip.

Ø  Press Open Dart:-When dart is pressed flat after being made, it generally used in garments made from heavy fabric.

Darts Principles

1.Dart Manipulation:- A dart may be transferred to any location around the pattern outline from the designated pivotal point without affecting the size or fit of garment.

·         Single Dart:- When we remove extra fabric according to the figure or design.

·         Multiple Dart:- When we give multiple darts to fabric to balance the fit.

Example:- When our waist is narrow and bust is heavier & to give shape to armhole & shoulder, we add darts.

2.Adding Principle:- When access fullness is required is greater than that of darts, the slash and spread method is used in patterns. The length and width within the pattern outline must be increased.

3.Contouring:- To fit the contours of upper torso than the basic garment, the pattern must be reduced within its frame to fit the dimension of body, above & below & in between the bust mounts and shoulder. Absorbing the dart excess into the style line to create contoured silhouettes.

Example:- Princess Line.

 

 

Tucks

Tucks

• When Fabric is folded from the right side and a seem is made in a particular direction and of even width, It Is known as Tucks.
• It is a decorative stitch.
• The seem is visible on the right side of fabric.
• Tucks can be handmade or machine stitched.
• Tucks are used to make garment attractive for creating designs.

Need of Tucks

• To give decorative touch to a garment.
• To hide defects in garment construction.
• To dispose of fullness to a garment.

Types of Tucks

There can be of following types:-

1.       Pin Tucks

2.       Square Tucks

3.       Cross Tucks

4.       Corded Tucks

5.       Shell Tucks

6.       Graduated Tucks

1.Pin Tucks:-These tucks are as thin as a pin. Hence are called Pin Tucks. These are made by machine of even width.

·         These are used to make garment attractive.

·         These can be made in any direction and get their name according to shape they are made like horizontal, vertical, diagonal Tucks.

2.Square Tucks:-These are made in square shape.

·         Longitudinal and horizontal Tucks are made to intersect in order to creative a square tucks.

·         Generally used in ladies & kids wear.

3.Cross Tucks:- These are diamond shaped and are made by criss-crossed diagonal Tucks.

4.Corded Tucks:-These are slightly thicker tucks.

·         A corded is placed on the wrong side of the fabric and the tuck is made or right side by holding the cord within the fold of the fabric.

                             5.Shell Tucks:-These Tucks are very different from other tucks.

·         The edge of the fabric is taken up about half”-1” and given a double stitch by hand at regular intervals.

·         These kind of tucks are generally used in ladies and children’s garment.

6.Graduated Tucks:-When many tucks are to be given the width of each successive tuck is generally increase.

·         They appearance is of graduated Tucks.

Collars And Its Types

 Collars

Ø  It is a extra piece or part which is attached to neckline any give the firm shape to neck.

Ø  It is the most important detail of garment as it draws maximum attention.

Ø  It is a frame work of upper torso which add features to neckline.

Ø  It is an essential part to male garment as any default in collar can spoil the whole look of garment.

Ø  It is the edge of garment the surrounds the neck or shoulder in a neckline.

Ø  It gives new style to garment.

Ø  Basically, it opens the relation between neckline and shoulder.

The four factors that determine how is collar looks: -

1.Distance between the neckline and the end of the neck.

2.Height of the stand.

3.Shape and depth of the fall.

4.Lapel lit includes its size and shape.

5.Collar can be decorative or functional.

Classification of Collar 

1.Convertible

2.Non-Convertible

1.Convertible:-These are the collars which can be worn or closed.

Example: - Shirt Collar

2.Non-Convertible: -These are the collars which can be worn closed only.

Example: - Cape Collar

Shape of Collar

1.Flat Collar

2.Roll Collar

3.Stand Collar

1.Flat Collar:- It is the same shape as the neckline and sit flat at neck and over the shoulder.

2.Roll Collar:- It stands up at the neckline and then folds over to sit on the shoulder.

3.Stand Collar:- Stand Collar is a band which stands on neckline.

Parts Of Collar

1.Lapel:- It is a part of breast of a coat or jacket folded back, forming a continuation of  collar (depending on its shape and length) it is also known as Peak and Notch  level.

2.Stand:- It is the underneath part of the collar that supports the folded section. It is of varying heights according to the collar design.

3.Fall:- The upper part of collar which falls from the stand is called fall.

4.Revere:- A revere collar is part of the bodice fabric incorporated into the lapel the jacket front facing is an extra facing piece that can be extended to incorporate back collar as well as the revere.

5.Collar Edge(Style Line):- The Shape of the edge of collar.

6.Breaking Line:- It is a line on which the lapels turn back and the fall turn over the stand.

Types of Collar

There are different types of collars:-

1.Peter pan Collar:- These collar are Youthful and casual and can be varied in many ways it is a non-convertible collar with parallel, circular edge and divided in centre front if one piece is in front and the back also in case of two pieces.

2.Bow and Tie Collar:- In this collar strap of fabric is attached over the neck and tie above the collar bone (for high bow, tie) it is found in bodies top.

3.Shawl Collar:- It is a collar similar to coat collar with various style lines found in over garments. They are narrow collars generally found in double breasted coat.

4.Coat Collar:- A Collar form by lapels with varying style lines found in over garments the collar can be with narrow fall and broad lapel or vice-versa.

5.Convertible Collar:- It means shirt collar it can be worm closed or open .It has a stand of one inch as base, over which a fall of 2.5inches to 3” it can be developed with seam along the collar edge. It can be buttoned in front from both points.

6.Chinese Collar(Mandarine Collar):- It is a stand collar in the form of paralleled band touching circumference stiffened for being used to stand upright. The height of the collar is ¼”-1/5”. This is a foundation of other collar also. This may meet the centre front overlapped or can be extended to any point along the neckline.

7.Funnel Collar:- The collar flares outward at the top of the neckline opening at the side or back. It is found in winter wear.

8.Turtle Collar:- When a collar is covering neck and is extended more and folds appears it become turtle collar. It touches neck and is found in knitted material garment.

9.Tennis Collar:- This collar is formed by knitted material. This Collar is developed in one piece. It is generally found in tennis shirt.

10.Ruffle Collar:- A narrow strip heaving gathers and attached with neckline, generally found in kids wear.

11.Chokar Collar:- This is a stand collar stitched on any neckline. Generally found in sweetheart or V neckline.

12.Cowl Collar:-Cowl Collar is separate piece of fabric attached to the garment. A cowl generally requires less fabric them regular cowl.

13.Gravel Collar:-This is a collar formed by attaching cloth bias with pleats on round neckline, generally found in female dresses.

14.Sailor Collar:- Traditionally a sailor collar is used in sailor uniform. Its V shape collar, bow tied in front and rectangular flapped at this is an a glass collar, appropriate, back, both young and old. The size and shape of collar can be altered for novelty variation.

15.Chelsea:- A flat collar stitched with deep V neckline of 2’’-2.5’’ width. Generally found in ladies one piece garment.

Precautions:-

1.Drafting:- Accurate measurement, correct design calculation, Line from X-axis to Y-axis should be straight and neat.

2.Pattern:- Pattern should have ease. Neckline should be clear, and have  notches for goal & proper shape.

3.Fabric Cutting:- Pattern should be placed according to green line. While fabric cutting, we should kept in mind about collar that it is convertible or Non-Convertible. Lining should be of same size while stitching edges, notches should match the marks.

4.Stitching:- Seam should be on marked lines, it should have enough margins, edges should be turned up properly.

 

 

 

Necklines And Its Types

 Necklines

• Necklines is an opening part of garment by which we wear it.
• It is an essential trimming or part.
• It is an opening live used to wear garment.
• It is important for any garment.
• Neckline does not have to be finished with a collar. It can be faced.
• "Faced" A facing is a piece of fabric that corresponds exactly to the shape of a neckline".
• It is sew to finish the row edges of necklines.
• Necklines is a framework of any dress or garment.
• If the necklines worsens, the whole look of a dress may destroy.
• It can make difference between loops.
• It is a centre of attraction of any garment. we cannot think about dresses without necklines.
• It may affects the garment fitting it is loose or tight.
• Neckline can be regular or essential part.

Types Of Necklines

1. Basic Necklines
2. Technical Necklines
3. Designer's Necklines

1.Basic Necklines:- Basic Necklines are simple Necklines.

Example:-Round, Square, V-Shape.

• In earlier Time the front and back both used to be same.
• Till now we are stick on circular neckline.

2.Technical Necklines:- Based of these necklines are basic necklines. These are based on solid figures.

Example:- Round, Rectangle, Conical/V, Square.

• It includes solid geometrical figures.

3.Designer's Necklines:- They are created by own imagination.

Designer's Necklines are classifies into two categorized.

1.Regular

2.Irregular

These are the variation of solid figures.

1.Regular :- These are based on normal neckline that require front, back and armhole in any garment.

Example:- String, Keyhole, Scoop, Sweetheart, Ladder.

2.Irregular:- These are not based on normal necklines and does not require armhole.

Example:- Off shoulder, 1 off shoulder.

Necklines Finishing

• Neckline area is often the most decorative part of dresses blouse, shirts, because it is close to face and is noticed before the other part of garment.
• The design an style of neckline and its finish should suit to wearer and should be appropriate two type of fabric.
• Therefore one must take care in designing and finishing neckline.
• If neckline is not rein forced by some kind of finish, it will starch and eventually loose  its shape and structure.

Types Of Finishing

1. Piping
2. Facing
3. binding

1.Piping:- In sewing, piping is a type of trimming consisting of a strip of a folded fabric so as to form a "pipe" inserted into a sew to define the edges or style line of any garment.

• Usually bias fabric strip is used.
• It may be made from either same fabric or constricted fabric.
• Piping is used to finish the curve edges.

Types Of Piping

1. Single
2. Cord
3. Double
4. Designer

1.Single:- These are simple piping which can be corded piping or inward facing piping.

2.Cord:- These are round shaped outward piping's synthetic wires, threads, wax, nylon thread are used.

3.Double:- These piping are outward piping the thread is passed through niddle in these piping.

4.Designer's:- It include frills, laces and layer of fabric stitch together.

Construction:- Basically used in circular and semi-circular shape to finish.

• Cut bias straight at 45' to increase stretchability.
• It is 1.5' wide bias strip, connect bios strip to form 1 long bios strip if required.
• Applied the fabric on neckline and if a half leg seam.
• After 3inch mark notches then turn up the fabric.
• Make a toxin and iron the fabric.
• Make hamming and then stitch shoulder.
• while stitching double or corded "piping's"." Double or corded" place the piping or cord in layers of fabric facing right to each other.

2.Facing:- Facing are used to provide a neat finish to our edges in your garment and to support shape of neckline, armhole, collars, etc.

• A Facing is a piece of fabric that is attached along an edge, then turned to lay flat on the underside of the edge to be faced.
• Neither Seem lines nor facing should show from outside of finish garment. Facing also give decorative finish, if they are turned to right side of garment.

There are mainly three types of Facing:-

1. Bias Facing
2. Shaped Facing
3. All Over Facing

1.Bias Facing:- In this type of facing a bios strip is used to finish the raw edges. It can be used on necklines , armholes. Bios facing can either visible on front (Right side of fabric or inward(wrong side of fabric)).

2.Shaped Facing:- These facings are cut exactly in same shape of neckline. The pastings or interfacings are used to provide shape of neckline.

Example:- Suits necklines.

3.All Over Facings:-It is used to neated finish the dresses that does not have sleeves so it finishes the neckline and armhole together.

Construction(Bias):- Cut a bios strip of 1''or 1/4''.

• Stitches the bias strip to edge of garment with half leg stitch.
• The fabric should be right side facing.
• Fold the bios strip towards wrong side of fabric an iron the seem or the neck shape.
• Fold the remaining strip under side an hemp the edges.

2. Construction(Shaped):- Cut a straight piece of fabric.

• Placed on the right side together.
• Stitch the fabric along with the neckline shape.
• Cut out the extra fabric but have almost.1'' of fabric remained.
• Mark notches to give shape like V, round, escape.
• Fold the fabric inside and stitch or do hamming.
• "While stitching never pull fabric or straight applied either inform of pipings or facings".

Binding:- Binding is used to finish and strengthen the raw edges and strengthen and to add decorative trim to a garment.

• It shows both on right and the wrong side of the garment.
• In this a bios strip is attached on neckline and armholes.
• Bios binding should have uniform width and should line flat and smooth without any stitches so on right side of garment. It can be same fabric of contrast fabric.

There are two types of bias binding:-

1. Single Binding
2. Double Bias/French Binding

1.Single Binding:- Single binding means that the sides are folded to the middle and pressed, the Single Fold, One fold is opened and the raw edge.

2.Double bias/French Binding:-Double fold bias tape is a fabric that is cut on the diagonal (the bias) and then pressed into quarters along its length. It can be used for decorative purposes or to finish an otherwise raw edge. If you look in your cupboard you are bound to see several tops and dresses with double fold bias necklines and armholes.

Construction:-Cut a bios strip of 1''or 1/4''.

• Stitches the bias strip to edge of garment with half leg stitch.
• The fabric should be right side facing.
• Fold the bios strip towards wrong side of fabric an iron the seem or the neck shape.
• Fold the remaining strip under side an hemp the edges.

Pleats And Its Types

                                                                    Pleats

When the extra width of material is folded over systematically to dispose of fullness in the garment is known as Pleats.

• Mostly fold fabric is seamed with upper seam.
• Pleats are added to any garment for decoration or adding flared to it.

Need Of Pleats(Importance of Pleats)

• To make flared in garment.
• To dispose of fullness in garment.
• To give a decorative touch to garment.

Types Of Pleats

Pleats are used to generate designs and also to get a good fitting in a garment.

Pleats can be of following types:-

1. Straight Pleats:- These are simple and one sided pleats. The extra width kept for is folded over and decrease to fit of garment.

• All pleats must be facing in same direction.
• The width and fold should be even and equal.
• These kinds of pleats generally used in skirts and frocks.
  

2.Box pleats :- The fabric is folded on right side and stitched length wise for about 2''-4'' from the edge.

• The broad pleat is then creased by burning the creased over the seam.
• The two equal piece obtained on either side of the seam and known as Box Pleats.
• These are generally used in men's garment.

3.Inverted Pleats:-When box pleats is made on wrong side of the fabric is known as inverted Pleats.

4. Meet Pleats:- When the extra fabric is folded from both side to meet in the center and is stitched at both top and bottom edge is known as Meet Pleats.

5.Knife Pleats:- This is made like inverted pleats.

• It is stitched on both the upper and lower edge but is left open in center.
• This kind of pleat generally used in uniform.

6. Falls Pleats:- When a pleat is made in order to conceal deflect in garment construction known as Falls Pleats.

Skirts And its Types

 SKIRTS

Skirts is a type of fabric that surrounds the body from the waist down. While designing the skirts, the two most important factors to keep in mind are silhouettes & the length. Silhouettes refers to the shape of skirt which depends on the amount of ease in the garment.

The skirts are styled in four basic shapes:-

• Straight
• Pegged
• Flared
• Sheath Skirt

Classification of skirt on the basis of length:-

1. Micromini Skirt:- A skirt which ends up to widest part of things is micromini skirt.
2. Mini Skirt:- A skirt that is located some where between the widest part of thighs & above knees(short length skirt).
3. Short Skirt:- The skirt hemline located between the widest part of thigh & above the knees.
4. Knee Length Skirt:- A skirt the hemline of which ends up to knee level.
5. Midi:- A skirt the hemline of which ends below the knee or ends to up to the calf.
6. Maxi:- A skirt, the hemline of which ends around the widest part of lower length.
7. Ankle Length Skirt:- A skirt, the hemline of which ends around the ankle bone.
8. Floor Length:- A skirt that touches the floor length.

Types Of Skirts

1. Gathered Skirts:- It's the simplest kind of skirt to make and consequently is often a beginner's first sewing project. The stiff fabric accentuates the hips and hangs away from the body. A soft fabric elings to the body and creates a more natural silhouette.
2. A Line Skirts:-Skirts in the shape of alphabet' A'. It is narrow at the waist with/without darts and a little wide at the bottom used in casual garments to executive.
3. Straight Skirts:- The side seams of straight skirt are aligned with the straight grain of the fabric and the cross-grain runs across the hips from side seam to side seam. The drop (difference between the size of the hip and the waist ) is removed with darts or gathers.
4. Circular Skirts:- (Half/Full) This skirt can be half circular, or fall circular, or for the most exaggerated look, several full circles seam together of all skirts, this one is the widest at the hemline. It has a small waist, and the skirts pattern looks like a doughnut. It also wastes a great deal of fabric and is difficult to hem because it mostly on the bias. When a very full skirt is desired, especially for evening wear, several circular shapes can be put together for a dramatic effect. Half circular shirt is the most wearable version of this silhouette. It has a modified and graceful flare that is more easily cut from fabric of average width, fall out (waste fabric) is still a consideration.
5. Flared Skirts:- A flared skirt is wider at the hem than at the waist.
6. Gored Skirts:- A Gored skirt often has a centre back seam (with a zipper opening) that divides the back into two gores. A gored skirt is named by counting the number of gores. It does not have to be divided equally in front and back.
7. Pencil Skirts:- This is similar to striped skirt but narrow at hemline with back slit opened more comfortably.
8. Pegged:- A Pegged skirt is wider at the waist line and the excess fabric is gathered or draped into a wrist band. The side seams are tapered at the hemline. Variations include the surround tie, asymmetrical drape and nobble skirt. 
9. Wrap Around Skirts:- A skirt fitted at waist and possesses a wrapped opening used is casual and executive wear.
10. Pleated Skirts:- Generally pleated skirts are straight pieces of heat sensitive fabric that are pleated commercially fabrics made from fibre that do not down pose under height heat such as polyester, acrylic or blends of these fibres are best for pleating both knit and woven fabrics can be pleated.
11. Tulips Skirts:- A Skirt having an overlapping of curve style lines in front like a tulip.
12. Petal Skirts:-A skirt having more than two overlapping of curve style lines in front which give an effect of petals.
13. Godet Skirts :- A skirt in which triangular pieces of fabric are sewn by cutting in hemline up to a depth get more flare at hem. used in lehengas and western bridal wear.
14. Tiered Skirts:- A skirt with tiers pieces of uniform or non-uniform lengths stitched with each other at edges. The tiers vary in width, narrow from top and wide at bottom. used in skirts for teenagers.
15. Layered Skirts:- A skirt with layers of fabric sewn at waist. These layers vary in lengths with or without gathers.
16. Sarong Skirts:- A rectangular fabric is tied around waist in a knot to\ form shirt. The sarong and other asymmetrically draped skirts were popular during the late 1940's. They were worn for street wear as well as evening wear . The wrap sarong over a bathing suit has become a classic.
17. Handkerchief:- A skirt which is cut in the centre of the square so as to stitch around waist with corners hanging at hem. used in a beach wear and is in fashion these days.
18. Yoked Skirts:-A Yoke is a horizontal division in a garment. A skirt yoke can eliminate darts and gores by fitting the fabric over the hips and forming the foundation for the flared or pleated portion of the skirt. This is an effective way to make a skirt fir smoothly under a long top. The yoke should end 2 inches above the hem of the top so that the yoke seam is not visible.
19. Flounce Skirts :- It is cut in two section, the upper one straight fitted and the lower one flounce. It is used in evening dresses.
20. Balloon Skirts:- A skirt with hemline on fold turned up till waist. The fullness is achieved by stitching double turned up fabric layer also with upper fabric layer. The hem is like a balloon used in kids wear.

   21.Peplum Skirts:- A peplum is kind of short skirt cut as a flounce or flared tier, sewn on to the waist line of bodice or skirt.